Construction Details

Construction of suitCertain factors receive particular attention in the construction of a Martinez suit, with the result that these emphasized areas become hallmarks to the cognoscenti.
These highlights are:

  • Silhouette
  • Shoulder
  • Proportion

“Style and fabrics notwithstanding, the single most distinctive feature in any suit is the silhouette.” The Martinez suit is patterned after the English cut: a product of the 200 year-old legacy of the great Savile Row tailors of London.
Cut to fit good figures, the Martinez coat also flatters those that are somewhat less than perfect. The coat is equal in comfort to one with less, or looser shape while allowing more freedom of movement precisely because it is shaped to the body.

The shoulderline must be straight, worn in any posture or position, yet sometimes it seems that very few designers understand the importance of this point. For if they did, we would not see as many otherwise well-proportioned men wearing twisted shoulders, shoulders which invariably succeed in distorting themselves. The shoulder is the hub of the wheel. Spokes, in the form of style details, are subsequently added but first must come the hub, the nucleus.

The proportions of a coat and trouser should be such that the wearer does not seem overwhelmed by his clothes. In keeping with good taste and judgment, the suit should be styled with correct proportions to flatter the wearer for many years to come without looking dated.

CoatPersonalized patterns are hand-cut for each garment; individual measurements and patterns are maintained

  • Fabric for each garment is individually cut by hand
  • A full horse-hair canvas is hand-basted into each garment
  • Both the top- and under-collar are felled by hand
  • Shoulder straps are felled by hand
  • Arm scyes are sewn by hand
  • Lapels are felled and shaped by hand
  • Gorges are stitched by hand
  • Bemberg linings are employed exclusively
  • The garment is pressed at key intervals throughout its make, by hand
  • Button holes are finished by hand including surgeon’s cuffs and boutonniere, with silk thread for the flower stem for each client.

All of the above steps in the manufacture result in the achievement of a softer coat, a coat which moulds itself to the body. With the passage of time, the suit literally grows to fit even better; as it gets worn, the more it shapes itself to the body’s contours.

  • Waistband is lined in 100% cotton, which, unlike polyester, breathes
  • Interior of waistband is hand stitched and made in such a way so as to provide support to the band and prevent rolling
  • Sewn in hook and eye provides a clean line at the waistband while keeping the fly straight at all times
  • Hand-stitching on the fly is an embellishment to give a better appearance
  • Pockets are lined in 100% cotton and hand-stitched
  • Pants are half-lined to the knee which holds the crease in place below the waistband and crotch
  • Bottoms are finished by hand

Martinez manufactures their shirts with the same care that goes into the production of a Martinez suit. Only the finest fabrics are used: cottons, from England and Italy, and pure linens from Ireland. Finally, to properly complete these single-needle stitched shirts, nothing other than natural ocean pearl buttons would be appropriate.

Martinez’ reputation for impeccable taste in selecting and making a vast assortment of accessories is apparent in the ties, belts, shoes and socks – all of the highest quality, with seasonal palettes to please all.